Riding the Huascarán Loop: A Journey Through the Peruvian Andes

The mountains are my sweet spot—a place where I reconnect with myself and the world. After a challenging year, I knew I needed something big to close it out. Some of the highest mountain passes in the Andes awaited. Was it too much? Never. All I needed was a bike, the open road, and landscapes that leave you breathless.

It all started with a Friday afternoon call from Nicolas. "What are your New Year’s plans?" he asked. Naively, I replied, "Nothing much, just rest." Then came the invitation: "Let’s ride in Peru." At first, I freaked out and said no, but curiosity got the better of me. I asked about the plans, and before I knew it, I was all in. There were five of us in total, ready to take on the adventure.

This wasn’t just any ride. We were headed to the Cordillera Blanca, home to the legendary Huascarán loop. A few years ago, Ryan Wilson told me about this place. He spoke of towering peaks, rugged dirt roads, and high-altitude passes. "I’ll go back as many times as I can," he said. Then my friends Karen and Don shared their own photos and stories of riding the same route. It looked like something out of a dream. Now, it was my turn.

Why Peru?

Peru isn’t yet a well-known destination for cycling, but it should be. The scenery is unparalleled. Snow-capped peaks, glacier-fed lakes, and remote valleys stretch endlessly before you. The food is as comforting as it is flavorful—big portions of chicken, warm coca tea, and hearty Andean staples that fuel you through the toughest climbs. And the kindness of the people? That’s what stays with you long after the ride is over.

For me, this trip was more than a bikepacking adventure. It was a symbolic way to close one year and open another, riding some of the highest mountain passes in the world with a group of friends. There’s a mystique to it: finishing the year on a bike, surrounded by nature, quiet roads, stunning landscapes and great people.

The Ride

The Huascarán loop is as challenging as it is rewarding. High-altitude climbs, countless switchbacks, and steep grades push you to your limits. Altitude becomes your constant companion, dictating your pace and reminding you to breathe deeply. When you’re climbing to summits over 4,600 meters, the reference point shifts—no longer is it about how many kilometers are left to the summit, but how high the summit is and how far below it you still are. On these massive climbs, the usual questions about distance fade away, replaced by a singular focus on altitude and the challenge it brings.

Cycling at such extreme altitudes is a unique experience. The highest road I had ever climbed before this trip was El Sifón, but this was something entirely different. On that climb, I learned to follow an internal pace—forgetting about speed, watts, or any numbers, as they simply didn’t align with reality. That’s altitude doing its thing. But here, in the Peruvian Andes, these high passes were more than 600 meters higher than El Sifón—a massive difference. How to enjoy such a feat? My camera became the perfect excuse to pause and appreciate my surroundings. The breathtaking views compelled us to stop, breathe, and soak in the moment. Thankfully, none of the five of us experienced altitude sickness, which allowed for a smooth ascent. Yes, altitude is real and unforgiving; less oxygen means more suffering. But somehow, we managed to relish every moment of this incredible journey.

The sheer scale of the Andes changes your perspective. Normally, when climbing on a bike, the question is, "How many kilometers are left?" But on these monumental ascents, it wasn’t about the distance; it was about the elevation. All we knew was how high the summit was and how far below it we still were. This shift in focus gave the climbs a different kind of rhythm—a mental game as much as a physical one.

This wasn’t just a physical journey; it was an emotional one, too. The Peruvian Andes put you through a rollercoaster of feelings. One moment you’re in awe of the views, the next you’re battling mud, hailstorms, and freezing temperatures. But it’s all worth it. You’re rewarded with moments like drying your shoes by the fire at a hostel in Yanama, sipping hot coca tea prepared by the kindest hosts.

Highlights

• Insane Altitude: Every day, we slept above 3,100 meters above sea level, we climbed higher than 4100 and in two days we exceeded 4600m.

• Remote Roads: Dirt tracks winding through valleys and over passes, with barely a car in sight.

• Switchbacks Galore: We found them all! endless switchbacks proving to be perfect photo locations and providing a full view of the mountains we were climbing.

• Glacier Lakes: Turquoise waters nestled beneath huge peaks.

• Great Food: Simple but delicious meals that taste even better after a long day on the bike.

• Warm Hospitality: Locals who welcome you with open arms, a hot meal, and a deep connection to the mountains that gave us context about the ride we were doing.

Closing Thoughts

The Huascarán Loop reminded me to appreciate each climb and descent for what they are, with the changes and rewards they bring. While riding a bike you enjoy the experience by the minute, conditions change so fast, that you simply need to connect with what is happening on that place at that specific moment. In the high Andes, rushing is your enemy, it will not only drain you, but forbid you from appreciating a unique experience found in very few places on earth. And while the climbs were tough, good friends, the landscapes, and the simple joy of riding made it an experience I’ll never forget.

If you’re looking for a unique cycling adventure, put Peru on your list. It’s a place that stays with you long after you’ve pedaled away.

Keep an eye out, our next blog post will include the full route, details of where we stayed and some tips.