Riding the Huascaran Loop: A 5 day bikepacking adventure

This detailed guide will walk you through our journey.

As with every great adventure, the journey truly begins long before you reach your destination. It’s that feeling of uncertainty about the unknown that fuels so much of the planning. For this trip, I must admit that I wasn’t the one doing the planning. The credit goes to our friend and fellow Scarab rider, Nicolás, who mapped out all the details.

Covered in this article:

• Why you should do the Huascarán Loop
• Best times to do the Huascarán Loop
• General logistics: Lima – Huaraz – Lima
• Route planning: Daily rides, accommodations, and key sights
• Who is this adventure for?
• Tips and Extra Info

A separate article will cover the following section:

• Gear: bikes, gear, clothing, and all the technical details.

The logistics and arrangements discussed here were designed for the five of us.

Why Should You Do the Huascarán Loop?

Because it’s absolutely incredible! If you love mountains as much as we do, then this is a trip you definitely want to plan. The landscapes, the remoteness, and the stunning roads are among the most beautiful we’ve encountered. If you’re looking for a thrilling adventure in the Peruvian mountains, look no further than this loop.

When to Do the Huascarán Loop?

The best season to ride in the Cordillera Blanca is from April to October. Avoid the rainy season from December to March if possible. While we picked the wrong time, it wasn’t too bad (we brought the right gear). The weather forecast was spot on, though: it rained every day, with two heavy hailstorms at high altitudes. Why did we pick the rainy season? It was the only window where we could all come together for this adventure. So, if you can, aim for the dry season.

We rode from December 30th to January 4th. The first two days were light rain, but the mountain passes brought much heavier showers and hail. We can’t say how busy the season is during the suggested months, but one great thing was the peace and quiet – it felt like we had the place to ourselves.

General Logistics: Lima – Huaraz – Lima

We all flew to Lima, arriving early in the morning at 7 a.m. After collecting our bikes and clearing customs, we grabbed breakfast (or more like an early lunch) before heading to the bus station.

We had pre-booked bus tickets from Lima to Huaraz with a company called Movil Bus. The bus station is located at Av. Tomás Valle 651 San Martín de Porres, 15103, Peru. The bus was mostly full, so I’d recommend booking your tickets online ahead of time. The bus departed at noon, but there’s not much to do at the bus terminal, so it’s best to hang out at the airport for a bit before heading there. Make sure to arrive 1.5 to 2 hours in advance, as the cargo area is used for transporting goods to these towns, and space is limited – not ideal for big bike boxes, especially when you have five! Expect a bit of pushback when trying to get your boxes accepted. For reference, we paid 50 PEN for our bikes on the way in and 20 PEN on the way back.

The bus ride took about nine hours. Fortunately, the buses were comfortable, though it’s wise to bring snacks and water, as there’s only one stop for lunch along the way – which turned out to be a pretty good meal.

The first part of the journey from Lima to the mountains wasn’t particularly scenic, but once we started climbing into the mountains, the views were stunning. After nine hours, we arrived in Huaraz. The bus station has frequent taxis, even late at night. We managed to fit all five bikes into three taxis, which took us about five minutes to our hotel. We assembled the bikes that evening, only to find one missing a front thru-axle. Somehow, we solved that on December 31st, in the middle of the Peruvian mountains – more on that in the tips section.

Our return to Lima was mostly the same logistics, just reversed. We took the 9 a.m. bus and arrived back in Lima around 6 p.m.

Route Planning: Daily Rides, Accommodations, and More

In Huaraz, we stayed at El Tumi Hotel. Huaraz offers many hotels and hostels since it’s a popular destination for trekking and hiking. The hotel was perfect for our needs: clean, with good food, and they kindly held our bags and bike cases while we went on our adventure.

Day 1: Huaraz – Laguna Llaca – Huaraz

Our first ride was an out-and-back route to Laguna Llaca, a stunning glacier lake. This was a great opportunity to test our gear, bikes, and setups before starting the bikepacking loop. The ride gave us a taste of what lay ahead – lots of climbing, cold weather, and high-altitude challenges. But the views were absolutely spectacular.

 

The road up was rough, and whether it was the fatigue from the long journey the day before or the steep roads, we all felt it. After about an hour of climbing, the snowcapped peaks started appearing in the distance, and the houses along the road became fewer and farther apart. It grew quieter and more remote. After an hour, the road smoothed out, and the gradient eased for a bit – making the ride more beautiful and manageable.

At 3900m, the altitude started to hit harder, but the landscape kept getting better. We took a break to regroup and eat. Some of us, especially me, were struggling.

When we finally reached the top, it was breathtaking. But we made our first mistake here: we were so excited to be there that we forgot to put on warm jackets and extra layers. We spent about 30 minutes taking pictures and refueling, but by the time we got back on our bikes, we were shivering.

The descent was rough, but we took it easy. We decided to take a detour halfway down, which led us to a perfectly paved road that made our descent a lot more enjoyable.

Back in Huaraz, we stopped for a late lunch at Restaurante Madero – good pasta in large portions, just what we needed! We had dinner at the hotel, went to bed early, and packed for the big adventure ahead.

Route link: Komoot: Huraz - Laguna Llaca - Huaraz
Route specs: It was 61 km long, with 1800m of elevation. The entire ride was unpaved except for the last 10 km descending to Huaraz.

Day 2: Huaraz – Yungay (Tulpa Rumy Hostel)

After packing up, we started the loop, first stopping for a replacement thru-axle and a quick visit to the local market in Huaraz. We ended up picking up some yellow underwear, which, according to tradition, brings good luck on New Year’s Eve.

The road from Huaraz to Yungay is paved and mostly rolling with a few steep sections. It’s a main road, so expect some traffic, and keep to the right.

We arrived in Yungay and stopped for lunch at the main plaza. Then, we tackled a 16km climb to Tullpa Rumy, our stop for the night. The road was a bit rough but manageable, and the views improved as we climbed.

At the hostel, we met Jesús, the owner, who kindly showed us to our rooms. The hostel also had a large restaurant where locals come to spend the day. We had a feast of chicharrón (fried pork), accompanied by cold beers, of course – it was New Year’s Eve, after all.

The night was quiet until midnight, when the fireworks started. Thankfully, they didn’t last too long, and we were able to get a good night’s sleep.

Route link: Komoot: Huaraz - Tullpa Rumy (Yungay)
Route specs: 76 km long, with 1250m elevation.
The first 60 km are paved; the last 16 km (the climb) are unpaved.

Day 3: Yungay (Tullpa Rumy Hostel) – Yanama

After a hearty breakfast, we said goodbye to Jesús and headed toward Yanama. Just a few kilometers after leaving the hostel, we saw the entrance to the “Parque Nacional Huascarán.” This sign was special – it marked the official start of the real adventure. The park charges an entrance fee of 30 PEN per person. There’s a small cafeteria and restrooms, and the staff can provide information if needed.

As soon as we entered the park, the landscape started to change dramatically. We were riding through a valley surrounded by massive rock walls, and the scenery shifted constantly. We hit  some switchbacks as the gradient steepened, and we knew we were nearing our first landmark.

Right when the road leveled out, we spotted the sign for “Lagunas de Llanganuco.” It’s easy to miss, so be sure to mark it on your navigation. The place is stunning – a turquoise glacier lake set against towering snow-capped mountains. The marked trails lead to another viewpoint. There’s also a small restaurant and restrooms.

We continued on, passing the second Laguna Llanganuco, and began the 16km climb. The views were absolutely spectacular, and with every meter climbed, the landscape became even more majestic. Expect some traffic and hikers at the bottom of this second climb as the entrance to the trail that leads Laguna 69 is pretty close by. 

We crossed the 4000m mark after about 5 kilometers, and from here on, we were above 4100m, higher than anything we’d ever ridden before. A sense of nervousness set the pace, and we kept it steady. Everyone was concerned about how our bodies would react to the additional 600m of elevation. The cold also started to creep in, and a light rain forced us to layer up quickly – a lesson learned from the first day.

I could write paragraphs about how spectacular this road is, but I want to keep this concise. Just remember to layer up as needed, keep your pace low and steady (don’t overdo it at this altitude), and always have your camera or phone ready. This is one of the most incredible, photogenic places I’ve ever seen. Enjoy it.

The summit, at 4675m, was as humble and remote as the ones we have in Colombia. Don’t expect much – just a change in gradient. Be ready for a bumpy downhill right after. The first section of the descent was 20km, and hopefully, you won’t get the hailstorm we got at the top. We suffered a lot, so much so that we couldn’t appreciate the landscape as we came down. We could tell it was beautiful, but we were too focused on survival. The rest of the ride was mostly downhill, with a couple of small climbs as we passed through a few native communities.

Finally, we arrived in Yanama, a small town nestled in the mountains with spectacular views. Finding a restaurant was a challenge, but we stumbled upon a great spot near the town square. We enjoyed a delicious lunch and had ice cream while the sun briefly peeked out. We spent some time drying our clothes and then headed to Andes Lodge Peru for the night.

Once again, we were fortunate to have incredible hosts. Zacarias and his niece took amazing care of us, letting us dry our clothes by the stove, ordering food for us, and sharing stories about their culture and life in these mountains. Yanama sits at 3400m, so it gets very cold at night.

Route link: Komoot: Yungay (Tulpa Rumy) - Yanama
Route specs: 64km, 1520m elevation, all unpaved

Day 4: Yanama - Chacas

Our hosts treated us to a great breakfast, and we packed up our mostly dry gear to leave. The morning revealed the surrounding peaks, and it was overwhelming. There was a peak in every direction. We stopped to buy some cookies and water, and the town was livelier than the day before, giving us a chance for a final look at the plaza.

The ride started with a steep 10km climb out of Yanama. The top offered beautiful views, and we could see the winding road we’d soon be descending. The road was well-maintained, unpaved, and perfect for some fun, smooth descending. But then we had a couple of mechanical issues that turned what should have been a quick stage into a full-day event.

First, Nicolás broke a spoke, puncturing his rear tire’s rim tape. An inner tube fix seemed easy enough until the rain hit again. It was cold, so we rushed to get it fixed and keep going. However, the real problem arose when his rear wheel wouldn’t freewheel, because we’d forgotten to remove the remnants of the broken spoke from the hub. We tried riding it as best as we could, even removing the chain to keep descending, but the situation was desperate, especially with worsening weather.

Then, Antonio hit a big rock while going fast, destroying his rear wheel. He managed to stop safely, but now we were in serious trouble, as this damage was irreparable. A mobile market van happened to pass by and offered to take Antonio and his bike to Chacas. This old van, packed with food for remote communities, came to the rescue. Antonio traveled with the van for about 4 hours, learning about the local area as they made deliveries.

Meanwhile, the rest of us kept riding. The road was beautiful, winding through valleys with cattle and some agricultural areas. Eventually, we hit the main road in Acochaca and began the last climb of the day, a 12km paved section with a steady 5% gradient. It felt good, and we didn’t push too hard, knowing we were acclimatized to 3400m.

We finally made it to Chacas, where we reunited with Antonio. Chacas is a larger town with a beautiful central plaza. After checking in at the Hotel Plaza, we had a late lunch. Antonio coordinated a rental bike and found a taxi that drove three hours to Huaraz with his bike on the roof. A bike shop in Huaraz sent a rental bike in another taxi. The day ended with a well-deserved pizza to celebrate.

 

Route link: Komoot: Yanama - Chacas
Route specs: 52km, 1310m elevation, unpaved until the 40th km, last 12km paved.

Day 5: Chacas - Huaraz

Antonio’s rental bike arrived in the morning, though it had been delayed by a landslide the night before. While waiting, we had breakfast and took a walk around Chacas, a charming town with narrow streets, well-maintained houses, and stunning mountain views. The peaks were incredible, and we knew we’d get closer to them that day.

We started the ride around 9:00 AM. The first part of the route was easy and flat, but soon we encountered a steep 25km climb that would take us to the highest point of the whole tour.

As we climbed, the scenery started to open up, and we made plenty of stops for photos. I was suffering badly, but the landscape helped offset the pain. It had snowed the night before, and the views were spectacular with snow-capped mountains, switchbacks, turquoise lakes, and cattle grazing along the road. We made it to the summit at Punta Olimpica, the world’s highest road tunnel. We layered up, as rain had returned, and crossed the 1.4km-long tunnel, which was dark and had no lights. To our surprise, we were still climbing inside the tunnel!

After emerging from the tunnel, we descended. Unfortunately, a hailstorm made the descent incredibly challenging. It was the hardest part of the trip, as the rain was relentless and the cold unbearable. We descended for 50km, trying to lose altitude to warm up, but it just kept getting worse.

When we reached Carhuaz, we found a chicken roastery and warmed up next to the fire. After a hearty meal, we had to ride a bit more, but the day was nearly over, and we wanted to reach Huaraz before dark.

Juan took the lead for the last 32km, where the road was far from flat. It had punchy hills, but we stayed together and arrived in Huaraz just before nightfall. We checked into Hotel El Tumi, cleaned up, and went to the same restaurant we enjoyed on the first day to celebrate the end of the tour.

Route link: Komoot: Chacas - Huaraz
Route specs: 116km, 2470m elevation, all paved.

Return to Lima
We woke up early, had breakfast at the hotel, and took a bus back to Lima. As expected, the bus was packed, and there was some trouble fitting the bike cases. But it all worked out, and we made our way to Lima.

We spent a full day in Lima. As expected, the food was incredible, and it was very fun walking around the city after our big adventure. We flew back home the day after.

Who is this adventure for?

This ride is tough, rough, and remote. Make sure you're in good shape and that this isn’t your first bikepacking adventure. You’ll need basic to mid-level mechanical skills – there were stretches of road with no signal, no transportation, and no houses for long periods.

This trip is for the adventurous cyclist. Expect accommodations to be clean and welcoming, but nothing fancy. Bring gravel or adventure bikes with easy gearing. You’ll be climbing a lot, and the bikes will be fully loaded.

Tips & extra info

·  Bike Shops in Huaraz:

• The thru-axle issue was solved by Juancito Bikes in Huaraz, who ordered one from Lima.
• Pushaq Bikes: Antonio’s rental bike came from a local bike shop in Huaraz.

·  Don’t miss the main market in Huaraz – it’s wild and so cool!

·  Hotels:

• Huaraz: El Tumy Hotel. Big hotel with many rooms.
• Yungay: Tullpa Rumy Hostel. Only 3 rooms, with 2 beds per room.
• Yanama: Andes Lodge Peru. Mid size hostel with a good number of rooms. Each room with 2-3 beds
• Chacas: Hotel Plaza. Big hotel wth many rooms

·  Food: Excellent, mostly chicken dishes. Be cautious with water and juices – stick to bottled water and avoid ice.

·  Bring Cash: Once you head out of Huaraz, it will be very hard to use a credit card, so make sure you have Peruvian Soles with you. It is even tricky to get Peruvian Soles in Huaraz, so best to do that in Lima

·  Properly fuel your rides: The roads are very lonely, and once you’re out of the small towns and villages, there aren’t many places to stop. So make sure you have ride nutrition and plenty of liquids for the long rides.

·  Hiking: if you manage to stay more time in Huaraz after the bikepacking loop, consider doing some hiking. the area offers world class hiking. The surrounding peaks such as: Huascaran, Contrahierbas, Chopicalqui, Huandoy, among many others. Provide the perfect scenery for all types of outdoor adventures.